Eric Wamanji
As a writer, one of my cherished partaking is coffee – nicely brewed steaming Caffè latte– great for a morning kick. In my culinary mix, there is also fish. The better if it’s tilapia.
Tilapia is a fantastic delicacy with great taste. It’s healthy too – so, no worries of gout and cholesterol. This explains my routine and delightful sojourns to mama samaki’s.
Not anymore.
One hot afternoon, my fish came on a huge platter – sizzling with seductive smell as usual. There were rings of red-ripe tomatoes and onions on the side complete with green chilies and half-cut lemon oozing its tart juice. But then, there was something off. On this day, my tilapia was rubber-like and tasteless.
It later dawned on me that most likely I had partaken on tilapia from China. That insight left a sour, horrible taste on my mouth. And, it was the last I ate fish.
SELF BAN
I imposed a self-ban because of food safety concerns. I fret every time I think of food from China. You remember in 2008 when infant formula in China was laced with melamine? It caused several deaths of poor souls while 54, 000 others were hospitalized. The scandal prompted 11 countries to terminate dairy imports from China.
But then, just last year, The East African commissioned lab tests on tilapia from China. The results proved my suspicion. Fish from China is contaminated with deadly heavy metals above acceptable thresholds.
This explains my fears.
Yet, Kenya imports an incredible 22, 000 tons of Chinese fish every year. The fish, mainly tilapia, is then mixed with local harvests, and sold to unsuspecting consumers. What a fishy enterprise this is?
Still, it would be naïve to imagine that Kenya can ban fish imports. In any case, authorities argue we have a deficit. Imports will help to plug in. Further, Kenya lacks the muscle to indulge in stringent protectionist policies for such a trade war can leave us with a bloody nose. We tried. We freaked out!
PRODUCT DIFFERENTIATION
But we cannot subject everyone to dangerous food in the name of market demands. In streamlined markets, and with an increasingly discerning consumer, product differentiation is critical.
And that’s why we need a robust traceability framework and mechanism to differentiate the fish we eat.
We need our fish to be labeled “Tilapia from China,” “Tilapia from Lake Victoria”… Traders too must make it clear to their customers as to the origin of the fish. A strict traceability regime will restore consumer confidence. It will also boost farmers and fishermen who indulge in ethical production practices.
This means that consumers can have choices. Those who are comfortable devouring Chinese imports can do so. In any case, fish from China is cheaper. Those who are ready to pay a price for safety or for patriotism purposes can equally make an informed decision. That is how it should work. But the idea of mixing bad fish with good fish is unethical, immoral even.
And the labeling for traceability is not a new idea anyway. All the countries in the Organisation Economic Cooperation Development (OECD) have established vibrant mechanisms that ensure only sound fish enters their territories. Fishmongers are under obligation to declare origins. In some instances, well established and properly run farms take pride in their produce that they make sure it is clearly labeled.
But the traceability regime should not be limited just to Chinese imports. Even local fish production doesn’t necessarily pass the integrity muster. Tilapia from fishponds is susceptible to contamination too. Pesticides, fertilizers or industrial effluent easily twist their way to the pond and ultimately to the plate.
Sadly even with increased mastery in adulteration, a relish of rogue farmers and traders, and even with improved knowledge on traceability capabilities, we still consume all our foods as if they come from the same sanctified and ethical source. This is absurd. It’s also criminal negligence on the part of authorities.
Indeed, sound regulatory regimes are critical to ensure the safety of the citizenry. Inspection of source, codification and strict surveillance of the fish value chain is the bare minimum we expect if the integrity of our health is of concern.
LOCAL INDUSTRY
If not, apart from the fish killing us softly over time, the imports will bog down the local fish industry. China, it’s important to know, has established mega fish farming of industrial scales. It’s the source of about 70 percent of global fish needs.
The trouble with China is that it cuts the coat according to size. While exports to the USA, European Union and other strict jurisdictions strive to meet the best quality standards, those for Africa are hopeless. We have seen this in electronics. The tilapia in your plate is no different.
Enjoying economies of scale, China will easily crash our local producers. That will be a savage ironic disaster for a country that recently hosted the Blue Economy Conference.
Our food should be ethically and sustainably produced. In any case, gone are the days when people just consumed products. Therefore, information about the source, and the entire value chain should be made available to the consumer.
Meanwhile, I’m looking forward to the day I’ll start my mid-day sojourns at mama samaki to devour the almighty sumptuous tilapia.